If your credit card requires an unauthorized charge to be for more than $50 to dispute it, you really need a new credit card…
I dont know the bank you are referring to, but I’d guess that what you were told (meaning, the page the Rep looked up in the answer guide) was how legally the credit card can only make you pay for the first $50 of fradulant charges. But I’ve yet to see or hear of a card issuer actually making a customer eat that $50. The big issuers often wont even bother investigating sub-$50 charges, and just give you a courtesy credit based solely on your word that it was fraudulant.
as I recall it was a Bank of America credit card. Trying to reverse a charge month after month is a pita and leaves it up to the judgment of the credit card company reps.
BTW BofA used to have a good virtual card number feature but the scum bags dropped it.
It sounds to me like they’re saying that you’re giving your login credentials to Plaid, an entity with which you don’t have a relationship … unless it’s in fine print of privacy.com’s agreement with you.
So, once you give them access, you can’t take it away by changing your password. At least, that’s what it sounds like to me.
Disputing AT&T’s charge for their abysmal online TV offering wasn’t too hard. I suspect that Amex just wrote it off and then blocked future charges.
Other charges that I’ve disputed lead to the cc rep’s requiring me to contact the vendor (or say that I did) to try to solve the issue before initiating a chargeback.
Speaking of which, here’s PayPal joining the “we ban the kind of Hate that’s unpopular with our rulers”, while BLM and Antifa fundraisers are no doubt welcome.
…white supremacist and anti-government organizations. It will also look at networks spreading and profiting from antisemitism, Islamophobia, racism, anti-immigrant, anti-Black, anti-Hispanic and anti-Asian bigotry.
that is also my understanding. They will continue to be able to debit the checking account to pay for privacy.com charges. That’s the main idea after all.
changing the password will stop other accesses using the information you provided to plaid.
The only way to stop privacy.com from withdrawing the money from the checking account is to withdraw all the money in the account yourself. That’s why you want to use a throwaway account. it occurred to me that many checking accounts have overdraft protection so even bringing the balance to zero might not be able to stop charges. so you have to remove the overdraft feature.
I asked privacy.com support how to connect a bank account with two factor authentication for login. Here is their response. basically you have to stop it during the sign up. they seem pretty amateurish. The whole sign-up process is a pain in the ass. Most financial institutions use the trial deposits on withdrawal method.
Unfortunately, we would be unable to determine if your bank account can successfully connect to our service via Plaid. Some users who have 2FA enabled on their bank account had trouble connecting to Plaid until they temporarily disabled 2FA. I’d suggest giving it a try with 2FA temporarily disabled on your bank account, and then re-enabling it after you have successfully connected your account.
I’d just use a regular credit card for substack as long they have some processor who will take them. Substack’s business model is much broader than any one newsletter / blog (and is not specifically political or conservative), so I think they would be reasonable about not excessively billing you once you had canceled some paid subscription.
Privacy.com also allows funding from a debit card.
An issue that occurs to me is overdraft protection. For the purpose of this thread, I do not want that.
I’ve never used a debit card. What happens if privacy.com tries to make a charge to the linked checking account through the debit card and it does not have sufficient funds.
If there is no overdraft protection does privacy.com have any recourse to try to get their money?
After reading this thread on the bogleheads I’ve decided to try using a Visa or MasterCard gift card that I buy at the grocery store when they have a sale and rebate the fee.