CA is indeed higher than average by about 25%.
However if I recall right Bender is in Texas? TX and CA have similar auto insurance prices (on average)
I have Amica too here in OR and we’re paying closer to $2000 /yr for 2 cars for the 2 of us. Combined value of the cars is ~$30k probably now. However OR & WA are about 1/3 cheaper than CA (on average)
Rates do depend on a lot of specifics like they can vary a lot even between zip codes in the same city I believe.
So Amica is leading car insurance provider here on Fragile Deal. I never actually paid attention or heard of Amica. Spouse in past years has handled car insurance.
From my experience here, you guys are all well versed on many different aspects of money.
I do pretty well on other money deals, but obviously I must start checking my car insurance companies. Although I just finished paying my premium for 6 months with Nationwide Ins. (that gives me some time before next payment)
on the other side, I think in some areas Hartford is the low- cost option for AARP demographic. So you might want a quote from them as well if you’re shopping.
I know my parent has Hartford for auto.
You don’t have to wait. If you get a quote from Amica and it’s cheaper, you can buy the policy to start that day and call Nationwide to cancel and they’ll mail you a refund check. Whenever I switch, I always pay my old policy in full with my 2% card and then cancel and get a refund by check. Free credit card rewards, not making me rich but I’ll take it.
I pay ~$1800/year for 2 cars in SoCal (full coverage at highest limits 250K/500K bodily, 100K property, and only $200-$300 deductibles for comprehensive/collision).
Nationwide is not cheap. After you get a quote from Amica (which was often recommended on FWF), get one from Wawanesa. It used to be one of the cheapest, but their rates have been climbing quickly for a few years. They also do home insurance and there’s a multi-policy discount, so maybe get a quote for the combo also.
It’s not so much NorCal vs SoCal, the cost depends a lot on the ZIP code (probably because of auto crime rates and accident statistics). Make sure your policy reflects the correct annual mileage, especially since you don’t drive that much. I know at least two people who totaled Lexus SUVs. This probably makes them more expensive to insure. Also older cars can be more expensive to insure than some of the newer cars that have more built-in safety features. The bluebook value of a regular car has very little to do with cost of insurance (unless its an expensive collectible or a luxury sports car or something).
Thanks, I’ve got my work cut out now. Wawanesa, that’s a new one for me.
i think I left it on just for potential passengers. You’re right, it’s value is near zero for me. Especially during the pandemic. It would cover your medical deductible though, I think, if you have any. Maybe also out of network specialists or disallowed charges your insurance won’t pay for? (Now I’m wondering how exactly it works…)
I’ll throw two more to check while you’re on the horn - Chubb and Cincinnati. If you carry an umbrella policy, I found these two companies to be the lowest, for me for the past 10 years. I only check rates every other year.
I think it covers both of those cases, but PIP coverage is so minimal (I think it maxes out at $10k for medical expenses), and yet so costly, that we didn’t think it was worth it.
Ultimately, if another driver is at fault, they will have to pay, and uninsured motorist will kick in if they can’t. If you’re at fault… then I’m kind of OK using my HSA to pay down my deductible as a form of self-insurance. My wife doesn’t get accident insurance when she snowboards to protect against injuries like broken bones, which seems higher risk to me than an auto accident.
All that said, while PIP imo is unnecessary, absolutely get the highest uninsured/underinsured motorist insurance you can. The number of people driving around uninsured is just staggering, particularly in states that don’t electronically verify coverage and suspend registrations when coverage lapses. As I said upthread, I had to use this a few years ago with Amica and had no issues.
I’m surprised how many people here insure for more than liability.
The odds of coming out ahead are heavily stacked against you, and if you can’t stomach a total loss, then your car is probably too expensive for you.
Auto loans are cheap subsidized money. (Not referring to manufacturer subsidized).
They generally require ~$1k collision.
UI is a must for uninsured/underinsured coverage.
Comprehensive and/or even glass coverage can be underpriced for low production vehicles. (See my vehicle’s windshield replacement example)
Definitely the right way of deciding what coverage to get.
I’m sure you’ll agree that if you have a car loan, your car is probably too expensive for you as well. But remember, most auto loans do require collision coverage, and a significant majority of new car purchases are financed.
I have comprehensive coverage. We have a lot of large trees where my vehicle is parked 90% of the time, and thus a lot of large tree branches that fall rather regularly. And the coverage is pretty cheap. But if I get in an accident and cant pin the blame/responsibility on someone else, I’m ok with footing the bill out of pocket.
Only if you say the same thing about mortgages. Money is fungible. With good credit, car loans are cheaper than mortgages.
I was just going off his comment that being unable to stomach a loss means your car is probably too expensive for you. My point was about insurance requirements while having a car loan, not if you should or shouldn’t have a car loan.
Almost seems like garages might serve some purpose…
large tree > garage
Well, yeah, if you have one. But it doesn’t seem wise to spend 2-3x+ the value of the vehicle just to protect the vehicle and save a fraction of a fraction of a percent of that cost in annual insurance premiums.
(Insert joke about big city liberals like yourself with no garages instead of large SFRs)
oops, wrong thread 
I asked Honkinggoose what part of the US was he located. So wondering same thing about you, glitch. Large trees & no garage? I heard your response.
Do you reside on a double-wide trailer? Located in the high tree area? 
Recall my tree story last spring…
Yes, it’s a “real” house. Nearly 4,500 sqft, if you include the finished basement . And lots of land, just not conducive to building a large structure without a lot of terraforming.